Thinking of going bold with black rings? Here’s what you need to know!
For gothic brides and divas out there looking for that slightly misbehaving look, a black ring shouldn’t be too much to ask.
In fact, black metal can set a nice contrast to your gemstone. It can make the sparkle of your gem more radiant and luminous. What’s not to love, right?
So there are two ways to turn your jewelry black: black rhodium and oxidised silver. They’re different processes for coloring the surface layer of your metal, and they yield different results.
So what are they and which one is right for you?
Let’s go back to rhodium plating for a sec.
Rhodium is a rare metal which is highly reflective and doesn’t tarnish, but too brittle on its own. When used as a plating, rhodium increases the metal’s durability and luster. You’d see it used on white gold ring to enhance its silvery shine, while adding a protective layer.
So is rhodium a durability-enhancer or a color treatment?
Well technically, it’s both. Rhodium’s natural color is white metal, but ink can bind to the rhodium particles and so you can dress up your jewelry in various colors.
For rhodium plating, first your jewelry is chemically cleaned, then a positive electrical charge is used to fuse the rhodium into the base metal. Within minutes, your silver or gold jewelry will turn black.
So if you use black rhodium, do you get the best out of both worlds?
Here’s the thing. Black rhodium is a surface-color treatment. Right underneath the thin black layer is your precious silver or gold. The slightest scratch can make the metal underneath pop because of the contrast.
Keep in mind that black rhodium isn’t an alloy. It’s not like a rose gold ring, where the colors are made from a mixture of metals. Black rhodium isn’t the base metal, it’s a plating. Even though rhodium itself helps as a scratch-resistant, sooner or later, the color will fade and need another finishing.
Gothic and slightly misbehaving
Nice way to make gemstones pop
Can give you an opaque dark color
Oxidised silver is a trend on its own. It’s not a technique to color the jewelry per se, but a technique to speed up the ‘oxidation’ process that naturally occurs on the metal.
The result is an antique and tarnished finish; its silver color faded, revealing a slightly yellowish hue and rustic spots. People are loving it for its aged, pre-loved feel. So what does oxidation do to silver?
First thing: it’s actually not oxygen doing all the work, but sulfides, like the yellow part of the boiled egg. So yes, it’s a misnomer. Common Internet knowledge says that if you put your ring inside a bag with boiled egg cut in two, within a few hours your ring will tarnish.
Jewelers will use liver of sulphur or potassium sulfide to color its surface. Oxidation is relatively simple manual work (so simple you can do it at home, if you don’t mind the smell), and controlling the level of oxidation doesn’t require elaborate machinery.
When you’re oxidising your silver, you can visibly see the color change, which means you can control how black or how tarnished you want it to look.
You can go all the way from gunmetal black to soft black with hues of purples, blues, bronze, or reds.
Oxidation is a chemical process, so swimming in pools, handling chemicals, using (household) cleaning agents and even the composition of your sebum can affect the oxidation.
So is there a difference between the natural tarnishing process and the chemical one?
Not really. Both of them are only surface-level changes (not like an alloy), and can be restored in an instant. To remove the oxidation, a jeweler can polish your ring, you can use a steam cleaner or you can opt for professional cleaning. Professional cleaning can either polish the oxidized layer off, or use chemicals and steam to reverse the process, and so restore its silvery shine.
Your silver piece will continue its tarnishing process naturally. Humidity and pollution definitely play a role, as does the level of sebum in your skin. A friend of mine can't wear oxidised silver simply because the sebum on his skin clears the oxidised layer in no time. All his silver jewelry is always shiny - it’s like his skin naturally cleans silver. So understand the characteristics of your skin as well.
If you live in areas with high humidity and high pollution, your jewelry will tarnish faster. Harsh chemicals, including perfumes and hairspray also speed up the reaction process.
Has a more organic, natural vibe
Here’s a quick chart to help you compare which treatment works best for you.